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15/01/2024
Have you ever admired a fabric with a vivid, detailed design and wondered how it must have been created?
Perhaps you were looking at the result of vigoreaux printing.
What is vigoreaux printing
Vigoreaux printing is a textile printing technique where combed fiber’s are printed with the desired color while in the form of combed wicks or ribbons. They are then processed in spinning, achieving a color mixture in the yarn and subsequently in the fabric. What makes this technique special is its meticulous attention to detail and the depth of color it can achieve.
It is the partial printing in list forms (diagonal or cross) of a nappa or open veil of fiber’s, with the aid of embossed cylinders.
Its purpose is to partially dye the different fiber’s and to make it possible to obtain blends with a degree of uniformity unattainable when mixing white and colored worsteds. The grooved steel cylinders are impregnated with dye solution to achieve localized printing. The stamped surface will be in accordance with the cylinders used. Later, a steaming process is carried out to fix the stamping at 100 - 150ºC.
What does the process consist of?
- Fibre preparation:
- Design:
- Dye application:
- Fixing and drying:
The base fiber, usually selected from combed wool, although occasionally from acrylic or polyester, is carefully selected.
One or two stamping cylinders or rollers are chosen to determine the desired design. These cylinders are essential for accurately transferring the design to the fabric.
Previously selected according to the customer's final specifications, the dye is applied evenly to the engraved cylinder through another dampening cylinder. The combed wool strands pass through the set of cylinders, where the design is accurately transferred to the fiber’s and adheres thanks to the impregnation capacity of each fibre.
Subsequently, the printed combed wool yarn is steamed and the dye is fixed by temperature. To ensure durability and resistance to washing, rubbing, perspiration and other fastness requirements set by the customer, the printed worsted yarn is washed and dried in the slush.
At Pinexports we are specialized in the manufacture of textile garments with different printing techniques. Do you have doubts about which printing technique you want to use in your next collection? Contact us to solve any question.